The bloody flywheel
The bloody flywheel! This caused me some grief but I have learnt a great deal of things.
Ok so I need to have the flywheel on the engine primarily so I can start the engine. It also provides the best place to mount the everflex coupling. The flywheel has multiple ridges and steps machined into it to obviously for the clutch to fit and locate. To centre the coupling I put the machined end of my shaft into the hole in the crankshaft and slid the coupling over the shaft. I marked the 8 holes, drilled and then tapped the threads. On the last thread the tap snapped. I tried welding something to it, drilling it out, oxy torch to melt it, hiting it with a centre punch and NOTHING worked. I ended up drilling 2 holes either side of the tap and knocked it out using a centre punch. Then I thought it would be smart to fill the holes with weld, re-drill and tap. Well didn't I think wrong. I could not even drill through the weld with a cobalt drill bit. After all this I rotated the coupling and drilled 8 new holes and tapped them.
Luckily the 8 mounting holes for the coupling sat directly in the middle of one of the steps in the flywheel but the coupling only had about 3mm of contact area to the flywheel. I thought this would be ok but as I tightened the bolts the steel on the coupling pulled down towards the flywheel. This was no good as now the coupling was not flat. I had to get an engine shop to machine flat the flywheel and coupling.
After what I thought would take a couple hours, 3 days later the flywheel was complete.
Ok so I need to have the flywheel on the engine primarily so I can start the engine. It also provides the best place to mount the everflex coupling. The flywheel has multiple ridges and steps machined into it to obviously for the clutch to fit and locate. To centre the coupling I put the machined end of my shaft into the hole in the crankshaft and slid the coupling over the shaft. I marked the 8 holes, drilled and then tapped the threads. On the last thread the tap snapped. I tried welding something to it, drilling it out, oxy torch to melt it, hiting it with a centre punch and NOTHING worked. I ended up drilling 2 holes either side of the tap and knocked it out using a centre punch. Then I thought it would be smart to fill the holes with weld, re-drill and tap. Well didn't I think wrong. I could not even drill through the weld with a cobalt drill bit. After all this I rotated the coupling and drilled 8 new holes and tapped them.
Luckily the 8 mounting holes for the coupling sat directly in the middle of one of the steps in the flywheel but the coupling only had about 3mm of contact area to the flywheel. I thought this would be ok but as I tightened the bolts the steel on the coupling pulled down towards the flywheel. This was no good as now the coupling was not flat. I had to get an engine shop to machine flat the flywheel and coupling.
After what I thought would take a couple hours, 3 days later the flywheel was complete.
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